Directions for typical Motorcycle LIGHT BAR Wiring

Light Bar Lamps are mostly left on like your headlight.

To ideally hook up a Light Bar, Locate one of the following:

A 12 volt Accessory Wire that has voltage when the key is on. You can use this wire with or without a single pole single throw switch, your basic plain regular SPST two terminal switch to do one of two things.
1) You can use this wire to trigger a relay (coil 86), (see typical relay wiring below). Our Universal Wiring and Relay Kits for Controlling Your Auxiliary Lights will have everything you need included in the kit.
2) Or for lower wattage lights, to power the lights through just the switch. Our Handlebar Mounted Switch from National Cycle is very popular for this application.
Finding a Speedometer Lamp wire is another option. You can use this to trigger your relay, allowing lights to be on all of the time. For low wattage lamps you can sometimes power directly from this source and even use the Handlebar Mounted Switch to turn them on and off if desired.
On some of the newer bikes there are unused plugs in the headlight shell that are designed for an OEM light bar to plug into. These circuits are already fused and there will be power there all of the time when the key is turned on. If this is the case, you only have to break into those wires and power your lights directly from those wires. If you want to be able to turn the lights off and on, you can also run the hot lead through a Handlebar Mounted Switch, .
A headlight wire inside your headlight housing that is not powered when you are starting the bike.
1) You can use this wire with a single pole single throw switch, (two terminal switch) - to your relay trigger hot (86). Since this wire is un-powered when the starter button is pushed, your driving lamps will go out with the headlight to reduce stress on your battery during starting. Using this method your Driving Lights will only work when you have either your dim or bright light on. Using this method you are only powering up the relay coil not the lights from the headlight circuit. You will need to use an Aux. circuit to power the relay contacts (which are feeding your Aux. lights).
2) We usually do not recommend powering the aux lights in parallel with your headlight wiring, on a lot of bikes your headlight will dim if using the same power source for aux lights and headlight.

Using a Relay or Smart Switch is the preferable method:

Different light bars may vary from this configuration. Here you can see how easy it is to trigger a relay by either switching the trigger terminal 86 or the ground terminal 85. The Custom World lights & Light Bars & most National Cycle Bars we sell are grounded at the mount. If the bar is mounted through rubber mounts, then you will have to run a ground wire to the bar or individual lights. You will switch the hot trigger of your relay with all of the Custom World and National Cycle lights. We suggest switching your hot trigger lead in most situations.
If you want to save a few steps, you can use one of our Custom World Smart Switches. You will be installing what is really a potted latching relay. The smart switch takes the place of both a relay and a switch. With this set up you will then be turning your light bar on and off by just taking your headlights from low beam to high beam. See description below.
You can also use one of our Universal Wiring and Relay Kits for Controlling Your Auxiliary Lights. This is a complete kit with virtually everything you need with a wiring harness already put together. For the money, this is a pretty good way to go.
Heat shrink to cover up any soldered connections or to tidy up wires is the way to go. Dressing up wires and being careful to run them in a manner where they will be hidden and tie wrapped properly will enhance your installation. Some Chrome Cable Covering will also give you a professional custom look. It just take a few minutes to plan the job and draw the wiring out.
An inexpensive Volt Meter or some other way to verify voltage and switch closure is a must. A crimping tool and solder gun are also needed, depending on what direction you take. Radio Shack is the easiest and cheapest place to pick up those items. Soldered connections are always a better way to go when making your splices or connections.
Always install an inline fuse on your supply circuit from your battery or use an Accessory Fuse block which is already fused.

For a finished look install some Light Visors (click here for instructions) and finish off the wiring with some available Chrome Cable Covering.

Typical wiring shown using a relay.

Using a Relay:

The switch or control power only needs to supply a small amount of current to trigger your relay (86). Put a switch in series with the (86) trigger input to be able to turn the lights on and off.

Hook up heavier wire thru a fuse directly from the battery or Accessory Fuse Panel to the (in terminal) 30/51 and then to your lights. You are now running all of your current through the relay contact instead of a switch which may not be able to handle the load, and possibly burn out.

Always use a relay or smart switch with the Custom World 45 watt Halogen "D" lights.

A Smart Switch, part number 05-777
(Custom World) is an alternative and takes the place of a standard relay and switch.

This is a sealed latching relay unit that can be installed anywhere, or in your headlight shell.

This is a very easy way to use a sealed relay and have switching all in one.

Standard wiring and control for the Smart Switch .

Custom World Smart Switch Electrical Connections

Motorcycle	Smart Switch
Hi beam headlight wire	orange wire
Light Bar Spotlamps	white wire
12 Volts (Accessory power when key is turned on)	yellow wire
Ground	black wire

How the Smart Switch works:

		Headlight	Spotlamp
click to hi beam on OEM switch	=	Hi Beam On	ON
click to lo beam on OEM switch	=	Lo Beam On	On
click to hi beam on OEM switch	=	Hi Beam On	Off
click to lo beam on OEM switch	=	Lo Beam On	Off
Then the cycle repeats itself. Every time you switch to Hi-Beam your aux. lights change. If they are on they go off and if they are off they go on.

All of our Custom World International Adjustable Motorcycle Windshields are fully compatible with the Custom World Light Bars.

All of our National Cycle Shields are compatible with the National Cycle Light Bars.

Helpful Hints for Auxiliary Light Clearance
Auxiliary Light Adaptor Extenders (Set), Custom World Part Number 05-0099 These replacement light adaptor extenders can be used to alleviate your windshield clearance problems when installing Auxiliary lights and light bars. There are a couple of different applications and installation methods. When using "A" or "D" lights with Vertical or Horizontal mounting, the replacement Adaptors will extend your lights out or up (depending on light bar style) an additional 3/4 inch. You will need to remove your original adaptor and install the replacement longer adaptor. For vertical mounting, this may allow you to raise the lights up enough to clear the curve of the windshield for your light clearance.

You will have a couple options for horizontal adaptor mounting (lights set up with the original adaptor at a 90 degree angle from the light bar): 1. Using just the replacement adaptor will get you an extra 3/4 inch of windshield clearance. These replacement adaptors will move your lights forward an extra 3/4". 2. If you still do not have enough clearance this adaptor can be used to mount the "B" or "C" lights on. You will get 2 1/2 inches of forward clearance compared to the standard mount with the "A" light using this method. The "B" and "C" lights do not have swivel adaptors, just a straight mounting stud. You will mount the light using a large washer onto the 05-0099 adaptor and then mount the adaptor to your light bar. Thread locker is strongly suggested.

Motorcycle Headlight and Auxiliary Light Visor installation instructions

Give us a Phone Call for questions or to place a phone order.

440-259-4793 toll free 888-532-0166

Fax an order 440-259-4718

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